The Domtoren and the Pope


I love this little intersection of historic spots and lovely architecture, especially as dusk makes its way in and the setting sun turns the Domtoren a glorious rose gold. Now the spot also has the addition of the statue of Pope Adrian VI to help frame the whole scene.

Foto Vrijdag: Reflections in a Window

Domtoren window reflectionI used to do a weekly Foto Vrijdag (Photo Friday) thing, but that morphed into Wordless Wednesday. Maybe now I’ll do both. This was a reflection of the Domtoren and part of the Pausdam in a window early this morning. Another bright, blue sky, autumn day.

Time Travel: Papal Residence

Paushuize 1
It’s been ages since I’ve done one of my Time Travel posts! Why not bring the theme back in a big way, going all the way to the top! This, my dear readers, is the Paushuize, a home built by Adrian VI, the only pope from the Netherlands.

This papal residence was built in 1517, a few years before Adrian VI, AKA Adriaan Florenszoon Boeyens, became pope in 1522. Unfortunately, he never got the chance to live in the residence. Still, Adrian was a native of Utrecht, born in 1459, most likely in a house on the corner of Brandsteeg and the Oudegracht. He was of modest means, with his father having worked as a carpenter and shipbuilder. Adrian became a scholar, with Erasmus counted among those who attended his lectures. He also became tutor to the man who would go on to become Emperor Charles V.

This is where my European readers can skip ahead, as I’m about to become giddy in a way that only an American history buff can. You see, for me, the Holy Roman Empire is something from history books, seeming almost mystical, as if coming from a fairy tale. Despite the fact that I’m well aware that the Netherlands as a nation state didn’t really exist until the 1800s — much as Italy, as a nation, didn’t exist until the 1800s either — it’s still kind of thrilling to realize that Utrecht, as the capital of the Bishopric of Utrecht, was a part of the Holy Roman Empire. Squeeee! I live in what used to be the Holy Roman Empire! As I said, I’m American. I’m easily impressed by history.


Anyway, this is where my love of Italian Renaissance history collides with my ever-growing fascination with Utrecht’s history. You see, Adrian became pope after the death of Leo X, the infamous Medici pope. Leo X is one of the few pope’s I remember, specifically because he was a Medici and I learned a great deal about them as I was studying art history. Amusingly, considering the machinations that took place any time one of the ruling families managed to get a family member elevated to the papal position, Adrian seemed determined to try to rule impartially and to rein back on the abuses of the system, including indulgences and matrimonial dispensations. But then, as now, money talks and I don’t think he had much luck.

To bring this post back around to papal residences, it seems that Adrian had never actually visited Rome before being named head honcho of the Catholic church. Sort of like me not having visited the Netherlands before moving here. One of the concerns for every expat is finding somewhere to live when you get to your new land. In this case, despite the lovely house he’d had built here in Utrecht, he was concerned that he’d have nowhere decent to stay in Rome, where he could dispense his papal duties. Fortunately, I think Human Resources managed to sort something out for him.

Pope's House

Foto Vrijdag 2.29

Artfully Arranged
We’ve started taking a walk in the evening after dinner. It’s a nice way to get a bit of exercise and enjoy the summer evening. Sometimes I take my camera, sometimes I don’t. Last night I did, and got a few shots that I specifically wanted to get, and I got some like this one that I wasn’t expecting, but couldn’t resist. This is a building at the Pausdam. There was something so charming and lovely about the arrangement and colors that I just couldn’t resist. I love the single bike, the lamp, the color of the door, the flowers in the flower boxes, all coming together to create a feeling of calm tranquility.

Fijne weekend! If you’re in the Jaarbeurs area, watch out for the 10,000 Jehovah’s Witnesses who are converging on the area this weekend!